Cover story, Vol. 1Style 멋
올리브영
ol·li·beu·yeong   noun   A drugstore chain with a green sign, found on most busy streets in Korea.

How a drugstore became the first stop for everyone who lands in Seoul

By August this year foreign shoppers had spent a trillion won in its stores, a third of everything sold at the tills. We went to the Myeongdong flagship to see why, and to learn how the tax refund at the counter works before you get there.

Written by the Kverything editors. Photograph by Unsplash contributors.

Today's word눈치nun·chi
noun   The skill of reading a room before anyone says anything. You have it, you lack it, or you are told to get some. Said when someone reads the mood of a table before anyone speaks.

This week

Eight ways into Korea

Every story belongs to one. The names are single Korean words; the colours are obangsaek, the five directional colours, and their in-between shades.

November

The calendar writes a third of the magazine. Holidays, exam day, comebacks, pop-up closings and the first snow come back every year with a new story each time.

Late November
첫눈Seoul’s first snow usually falls in late November. The date is a story every year.
Late November
김장A winter’s kimchi made in one weekend. Markets sell cabbage by the twenty-kilo net.
11 November
빼빼로데이Boxes of chocolate sticks at every till. The limited editions are gone by noon.
19 November
수능The college exam. Offices open late, extra trains run, and planes hold during the English listening test. Confirm the date each year with KICE.
This week's question

What did you bring home from Korea that you still use?

Pick one or add your own. We read every answer on Monday; the thing named most becomes a story the week after.

104 answers so far this week. One vote each; you can change it.