Cover story, Vol. 1Style 멋
올리브영
ol·li·beu·yeong   noun   A drugstore chain with a green sign, found on most busy streets in Korea.
A busy street in Seoul, pink and white storefronts, young people walking
Myeongdong, Seoul. The flagship carries the brands most visitors come for; the counter handles the refund on the spot.

How a drugstore became the first stop for everyone who lands in Seoul

By August this year foreign shoppers had spent a trillion won in its stores, a third of everything sold at the tills. We went to the Myeongdong flagship to see why, and to learn how the tax refund at the counter works before you get there.

Written by the Kverything editors. Photograph by Xuedi Liu on Unsplash.

Today's word눈치nun·chi
noun   The skill of reading a room before anyone says anything. You have it, you lack it, or you are told to get some. Said when someone reads the mood of a table before anyone speaks.
Yesterday: 눈치

This week

멋 Style올리브영ol·li·beu·yeongHow a drugstore became the first stop for everyone who lands in Seoul멋 Style쿠션ku·syeonThe cushion compact turns eighteen. It is still the thing people fly home with.맛 Taste웨이팅we·i·tingWhy Seoul queues for lunch, and how to put your name down from the subway맛 Taste라멘ra·menHongdae’s ramen shops open at eleven. The line forms at ten thirty.놀이 Play인생네컷in·saeng·ne·keotThe photo booth is the new postcard. How four frames took over the night out맛 Taste편의점pyeon·ui·jeomA convenience store at midnight is a place to eat, not a shop길 Streets홍대hong·daeThe art-school neighbourhood keeps changing its mind. What is still there.화면 Screen포장마차po·jang·ma·chaThe orange tent in every drama, and the real ones still open in Jongno소리 Sound리스닝 바ri·seu·ning baSeoul started listening again. Here is where it happens.화면 Screen이태원 클라쓰i·tae·won keul·la·sseuItaewon Class in four scenes, on foot길 Streets성수동seong·su·dongSeongsu this week: four pop-ups, two of them closing Sunday멋 Style모나미mo·na·miThe three-hundred-won pen that got its own shops, and an ink bar멋 Style무신사mu·sin·saThe streetwear app that opened real shops. What sells, and how the refund works.소리 Sound컴백keom·baekA comeback is a week-long event. How to follow one from abroad, and what the fans queue for말 Words존댓말jon·daen·malSix ways to say the same sentence, and the two you actually need말 Words화이팅hwa·i·tingThe English word Koreans say to mean you can do it놀이 Play노래방no·rae·bangA room, two microphones and a tambourine. How to book a singing room by the hour삶 Life배달bae·dalHow a city eats at midnight삶 Life카카오톡ka·ka·o·tokThe app the country runs on, and how to set it up before you land멋 Style한복han·bokHanbok for the afternoon: what to rent, where to walk, and the free entry it gets you길 Streets북촌buk·chonBukchon before ten in the morning, and the rule the residents asked for길 Streets광안리gwang·an·riGwangalli at dusk: the bridge, the drone show and the raw-fish floors

Clips

Under a minute each. Official channels or a credited creator, played on YouTube.

Where

Streets with a scene. Seoul first, then Busan. All of it lives in 길 Streets.

Eight ways into Korea

Every story belongs to one. The names are single Korean words; the colours are obangsaek, the five directional colours, and their in-between shades.

November

The calendar writes a third of the magazine. Holidays, exam day, comebacks, pop-up closings and the first snow come back every year with a new story each time.

Late November
첫눈Seoul’s first snow usually falls in late November. The date is a story every year.
Late November
김장A winter’s kimchi made in one weekend. Markets sell cabbage by the twenty-kilo net.
11 November
빼빼로데이Boxes of chocolate sticks at every till. The limited editions are gone by noon.
19 November
수능The college exam. Offices open late, extra trains run, and planes hold during the English listening test. Confirm the date each year with KICE.
This week's question

What did you bring home from Korea that you still use?

Pick one or add your own. We read every answer on Monday; the thing named most becomes a story the week after.

104 answers so far this week. One vote each; you can change it.